Julia Yarovoy, jbaskova@yahoo.com
Your adoption facilitator will offer translation services during your stay in Ukraine. However, a translator will not be able to be with you all day every day. If you find yourself in need of a good translator or need advice about getting around Odessa, we recommend Julia. She is a Christian with a caring heart and excellent translation skills.
Julia and her husband, Sergey, are natives of Odessa and know the city very well. Julia was Paul's translator and tour guide during his first trip to Odessa. On our current trip, a group of American families wanted to go out on the town one Saturday evening but,we were without our normal translators. So, we called Julia and hired her to interpret and guide the group around the city center. At the end of the evening, Julia helped each family find a taxi or the correct bus home. Huge help!
Julia also works as an English tutor. We hired her to provide English lessons for Yuri which was a huge help in jump-starting Yuri's English skills.
Sasha Finenko - 80671831558
Sasha Finenko - 80671831558 If you need a reliable, safe taxi driver, call Sasha. We used him as our primary driver during our stay in Odessa. He operates a 7 passenger van which is a big advantage over eating your knees as you cram your travel party into the back seat of a small car. So many taxi drivers seem to operate their cars with vengeful aggression. By comparison, Sasha is noticeably more calm and safe. We also found his rates to be fair (compared against other vans). Sasha speaks very little English so, an interpreter will have to call him for you. Tell Sasha Paul & Renee sent you. ;-)
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
Monday, April 23, 2007
We Made It Home!
Together at last!
Sorry for the delay in making this post. Since we arrived home, it has been a whirlwind of activity. Two soccer games, a family birthday party in Lincoln, church, shopping, laundry, unpacking.... you get the picture.
We touched down in Omaha at 11:35 p.m. Friday night. What a day. We had to run to catch each flight on our trip home. Due to short notice, our travel agent pieced together flights from three different airlines in order to get us home by Friday night. AeroSvit (Ukrainian airline) from Kiev to JFK. Delta from JFK to Chicago. United from Chicago to Omaha.
Friday began smooth enough. We arrived early at Borispol airport in Kiev. However, a customs agent prevented us from boarding the flight. We had to present the original court documents givng us the right to adopt Yuri. We were not informed we needed to present these documents in order to board the plane and had them packed in a suitcase which was already checked. Long story short, all four of our bags were pulled off the plane. We retrieved the documents, had them stamped and ran through security and down the jet way to a plane full of passengers waiting our arrival. (They held the plane for us.) We had tight connnections in JFK (customs) and Chicago. In fact, in Chicago, United had already given our seats to "stand by" passengers and had to pull them from the plane.
Tip to future adoptive parents: keep all your original documents in your carry on bag. You will need to present them in order to leave the country. ;-)
Dad, Mom and Yuri on the flight from Kiev to New York City. A sigh of releif.
The Weddingtons: Sasha, Suzette and Katya. In additon to the Berger and Weddington families, there were two other families on the plane who had also adopted kids from different regions of Ukraine. One of those kids is, Christina, the girl sitting at Katya's left.
The welcome comittee at the airport. I apologize for the quality of this photo. I was a little tired and excited when I snapped it. Liz, Christina and Andrew are holding a sign in the center of the photo, surrounded by members of Paul's family. Grandma Rose and members of Renee's family are to the right. The people on the left are good friends from our church who have also adopted kids from Ukraine. There must have been about 25-30 people to provide a warm welcome home. It was pretty cool.
The kids constructed "Welcome Home" signs. The sign in the bottom photo was posted in our front yard.
Upon our return home, we presented the kids with souvenirs. Christina, Andrew and Yuri show off their new "Ukraine" soccer jerseys.
Andrew and Yuri play a little hoops on the drive way.
Cole Lennard and Yuri get reacquainted. Cole is Yuri's good friend from Internot #4. Cole has been in the US almost two years and lives near our home.
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Success in Kiev. Next step... Fly Home!
Safe arrival in Kiev last night--check
Successful Medical Exam Thursday morning--check.
Successful Appointment at US Embassy--check.
Embassy computer network functioning properly today--check.
Yuri, Sasha and Katya issued Visas late afternoon Thursday--check.
The Berger and Weddington families make it through Kiev in one day!
It is 7 p.m. local time and tonight's post comes to you from an internet cafe in downtown Kiev.
We are absolutely thrilled! Praise God and thank you all for your prayers and support. Thanks also to the facilitators and translators who worked so hard to get us out of Ukraine this week. We are "extra" thankful because as of last night, we were pretty much resigned to the fact it would take two-days to get through Kiev, mainly due to a problem in the computer system. Meaning, we could not fly home until Saturday. Bummer. So, you can imagine our surprise and joy when an official at the Embassy said the network was working and they expected to have our Visas ready by end of day!!
All that is left to do now is find a flight home on Friday. As I write, we have a travel agent working on options. We will call/email once we know our arrival time back home--most likely Friday evening. Sorry, kids. You will not get to miss school. ;-)
Successful Medical Exam Thursday morning--check.
Successful Appointment at US Embassy--check.
Embassy computer network functioning properly today--check.
Yuri, Sasha and Katya issued Visas late afternoon Thursday--check.
The Berger and Weddington families make it through Kiev in one day!
It is 7 p.m. local time and tonight's post comes to you from an internet cafe in downtown Kiev.
We are absolutely thrilled! Praise God and thank you all for your prayers and support. Thanks also to the facilitators and translators who worked so hard to get us out of Ukraine this week. We are "extra" thankful because as of last night, we were pretty much resigned to the fact it would take two-days to get through Kiev, mainly due to a problem in the computer system. Meaning, we could not fly home until Saturday. Bummer. So, you can imagine our surprise and joy when an official at the Embassy said the network was working and they expected to have our Visas ready by end of day!!
All that is left to do now is find a flight home on Friday. As I write, we have a travel agent working on options. We will call/email once we know our arrival time back home--most likely Friday evening. Sorry, kids. You will not get to miss school. ;-)
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
We Depart Odessa Tonight!
It is 6 p.m. in Odessa. We received a favorable decision today from the child protection board re Yuri's property. We have Yuri's passport and airline tickets to Kiev. Our plane departs at 9:40 p.m., Odessa time and arrives in Kiev at 10:50 p.m.. We also had success closing Yuri's bank account. It was worth it, Yuri is providing funds to both Babushka and his brother, Viktor.
In Kiev, we are sharing a large apartment (3 bedrooms, living room) with the Weddington family. We plan to have Yuri's medical examination in the morning. We hear the US Embassy is having issues with their computer connection to Washington D.C. We pray this does not interfere with getting out of Kiev by Friday.
We lost our internet connection today and so, I am borrowing the Becker's internet to make this post. I am uncertain what kind of internet access we will have in Kiev. We will post when we can. If you don't hear from us via the blogg, keep checking back we will offer more picture posts as soon as we regain high-speed access--even if that means posting from home after we return. ;-)
Prayer Request - For safe travel tonight to Kiev. For computer system at the Embassy to function.
Praise - For everything!
In Kiev, we are sharing a large apartment (3 bedrooms, living room) with the Weddington family. We plan to have Yuri's medical examination in the morning. We hear the US Embassy is having issues with their computer connection to Washington D.C. We pray this does not interfere with getting out of Kiev by Friday.
We lost our internet connection today and so, I am borrowing the Becker's internet to make this post. I am uncertain what kind of internet access we will have in Kiev. We will post when we can. If you don't hear from us via the blogg, keep checking back we will offer more picture posts as soon as we regain high-speed access--even if that means posting from home after we return. ;-)
Prayer Request - For safe travel tonight to Kiev. For computer system at the Embassy to function.
Praise - For everything!
People We Would Like You to Meet:
A good friend of ours, who adopted two kids from Odessa, put it best when she said, “… they knew our kids and loved our kids before we did. And, we love them for it.”
We are amazed by the work God has done and will continue to do, through the ministries of each of the people listed below. We respect them, love them and count them as friends. We would love to tell you about their work and go on about their stories but, we thought we should let their respective websites/bloggs do the talking instead.
Lela Steel
“Babushka” Lela already lived one full and complete life in Florida. Then, God showed her the desperate needs of children in Odessa and at age 71, a her new “life’s work” began. http://www.harvestinternational.org/HeritageHouse/ You may email Lela at lelasteel@normaplus.com
Paul and Tanya Becker
By occupation, Paul is a dentist and Tanya is President of a theological seminary. Boy, is that only scratching the surface. http://www.heritagehouse.blogspot.com/
Michelle
Michelle’s role is “volunteer” at the orphanage. The title itself is so basic yet, Michelle fills it with so much love and meaning. Every child needs a friend like Michelle. You may contact Michelle at michellevonjoy@juno.net
Julia and Sergey Yarovoy
On my first trip to Odessa, I knew Julia only as a very skilled translator and her husband, Sergey as a nice guy who polished cars. During my second trip, I learned a lot more! http://www.youthofukraine.org/ click on the "Sergey and Julia" tab. You may contact them at jbaskova@yahoo.com
We are amazed by the work God has done and will continue to do, through the ministries of each of the people listed below. We respect them, love them and count them as friends. We would love to tell you about their work and go on about their stories but, we thought we should let their respective websites/bloggs do the talking instead.
Lela Steel
“Babushka” Lela already lived one full and complete life in Florida. Then, God showed her the desperate needs of children in Odessa and at age 71, a her new “life’s work” began. http://www.harvestinternational.org/HeritageHouse/ You may email Lela at lelasteel@normaplus.com
Paul and Tanya Becker
By occupation, Paul is a dentist and Tanya is President of a theological seminary. Boy, is that only scratching the surface. http://www.heritagehouse.blogspot.com/
Michelle
Michelle’s role is “volunteer” at the orphanage. The title itself is so basic yet, Michelle fills it with so much love and meaning. Every child needs a friend like Michelle. You may contact Michelle at michellevonjoy@juno.net
Julia and Sergey Yarovoy
On my first trip to Odessa, I knew Julia only as a very skilled translator and her husband, Sergey as a nice guy who polished cars. During my second trip, I learned a lot more! http://www.youthofukraine.org/ click on the "Sergey and Julia" tab. You may contact them at jbaskova@yahoo.com
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
One More Day in Odessa... again.
We are not leaving Odessa tonight. At one point this afternoon, we thought we may not be able to depart Ukraine until next week! (That was the dark and angry moment of the day.) However, that was only a misunderstanding. Our people tell us they will have us out of Odessa Wednesday night and out of the country by no later than Friday. We should be happy at this news but, honestly, we are so worn down and disappointed over events from this last week that we are kind of numb right now.
To recap, we did not get Yuri's passport today, we did not get a decision on his property and we were unable to close out his bank account. We expect to have all three of these items accomplished tomorrow. Our facilitator and translator are working very hard and doing everything they can for a quick resolution to our problems. FYI... Yuri has been great through all of the waiting that we have had to do lately. He has not asked us "Are we there yet?" even once!
Prayer Request -I think the prayer request should remain the same. That Renee and I have patience, understanding and wisdom. For efficiency in both Odessa and Kiev. Safe travels and for decent lodging in Kiev. And, tonight, I want to remind you to pray for our kids back home and Grandma Rose who is caring for them. Thank you.
To recap, we did not get Yuri's passport today, we did not get a decision on his property and we were unable to close out his bank account. We expect to have all three of these items accomplished tomorrow. Our facilitator and translator are working very hard and doing everything they can for a quick resolution to our problems. FYI... Yuri has been great through all of the waiting that we have had to do lately. He has not asked us "Are we there yet?" even once!
Prayer Request -I think the prayer request should remain the same. That Renee and I have patience, understanding and wisdom. For efficiency in both Odessa and Kiev. Safe travels and for decent lodging in Kiev. And, tonight, I want to remind you to pray for our kids back home and Grandma Rose who is caring for them. Thank you.
Monday, April 16, 2007
One More Day in Odessa?
The Nutshell - As I write this post, it is 8 pm. Monday in Odessa. We had hoped to depart for Kiev tonight but could not get Yuri's passport today. 37 days in country and counting! Today started out so promising and then we hit a road block this afternoon. However, we made some headway on all fronts and are very hopeful we can wrap it all up Tuesday. We moved our flight reservations to Kiev back to Tuesday night.
Today, was a long one in the van as we criss-crossed the city. Driving and waiting. Driving and waiting, etc. Yuri was so tired (from his recent overnight) and so bored, he spent much of the time curled up in the back seat napping. Paul's knees ache from so much sitting. We like our driver Sasha, but after today, we are less enthusiastic about his van. ;-)
When will we get home? - It is likely we will have two days in Kiev for Yuri's physical exam and to process him through the US Embassy, although, we will do our best to get it all done in one day. We hope to be home Thursday or Friday depending how quickly we can get through the process in Kiev. Sorry, we can't be more specific. Everything hinges on when we are able to leave Odessa.
Thank you! - Thank you for your thoughts, prayers and encouraging messages. I think we had a break-through today and feel a degree of understanding, peace and optimism that we did not have Sunday night. There is so much more we would love to share with you now but, now is not the time.
Prayer Request - Please keep praying for us. That Renee and I have patience, understanding and wisdom. For efficiency in both Odessa and Kiev. Safe travels and for lodging in Kiev. With the current political difficulties in the capitol city, there are few hotel rooms and apartments available. Thanks!
What happened on Sunday? - We attended Sunday services with Michelle and the Weddington's at the Presbyterian church. The service was in Russian but they provide English translation via head phones. However, the sermon just happened to be preached by an American pastor in English . After church, the Weddington's and Berger's walked to Afina Mall to eat lunch at Mario's (7th meal at Mario's for the Berger's).
After lunch, the Weddington's invited Yuri to "Playland" for more arcade games. Renee and Paul walked to the Becker's apartment where we traded Renee's computer expertise for free laundry service (using machines!). Sunday evening was spent at home. Our friend, Michelle, came over and borrowed the internet while Renee and I packed. We ate supper, bloggged, checked email and passively watched bits and pieces of the movie, "Troy" with Brad Pitt (in Russian). OK, now you are all caught up with our Sunday.
Sasha and Yuri mess around after church as they wait for their parent's decision on where to go for lunch. The boys are very good friends and enjoy each other's company. Watching them interact is like watching a couple puppies wrestling. They can't leave one another alone for 10 seconds without physically picking on each other.
Today, was a long one in the van as we criss-crossed the city. Driving and waiting. Driving and waiting, etc. Yuri was so tired (from his recent overnight) and so bored, he spent much of the time curled up in the back seat napping. Paul's knees ache from so much sitting. We like our driver Sasha, but after today, we are less enthusiastic about his van. ;-)
When will we get home? - It is likely we will have two days in Kiev for Yuri's physical exam and to process him through the US Embassy, although, we will do our best to get it all done in one day. We hope to be home Thursday or Friday depending how quickly we can get through the process in Kiev. Sorry, we can't be more specific. Everything hinges on when we are able to leave Odessa.
Thank you! - Thank you for your thoughts, prayers and encouraging messages. I think we had a break-through today and feel a degree of understanding, peace and optimism that we did not have Sunday night. There is so much more we would love to share with you now but, now is not the time.
Prayer Request - Please keep praying for us. That Renee and I have patience, understanding and wisdom. For efficiency in both Odessa and Kiev. Safe travels and for lodging in Kiev. With the current political difficulties in the capitol city, there are few hotel rooms and apartments available. Thanks!
What happened on Sunday? - We attended Sunday services with Michelle and the Weddington's at the Presbyterian church. The service was in Russian but they provide English translation via head phones. However, the sermon just happened to be preached by an American pastor in English . After church, the Weddington's and Berger's walked to Afina Mall to eat lunch at Mario's (7th meal at Mario's for the Berger's).
After lunch, the Weddington's invited Yuri to "Playland" for more arcade games. Renee and Paul walked to the Becker's apartment where we traded Renee's computer expertise for free laundry service (using machines!). Sunday evening was spent at home. Our friend, Michelle, came over and borrowed the internet while Renee and I packed. We ate supper, bloggged, checked email and passively watched bits and pieces of the movie, "Troy" with Brad Pitt (in Russian). OK, now you are all caught up with our Sunday.
Sasha and Yuri mess around after church as they wait for their parent's decision on where to go for lunch. The boys are very good friends and enjoy each other's company. Watching them interact is like watching a couple puppies wrestling. They can't leave one another alone for 10 seconds without physically picking on each other.
Interior views of renovated Presbyterian Church. There are several Americans who attend or are members. The Church will soon host a group of Americans who will be here on a two-week project working on the church building and orphanages around Odessa.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Glimpse of Internot #4
Before continuing with another one of our daily posts, we wanted to pause and give you a little wider glimpse of Internot #4.
Michelle Maly, volunteer at Internot #4 (gray shirt), shows the fourth grade class how to make make a mobile.
A couple of the boys show off their mobiles.
Looking at the main building from outside the fence. This building houses offices, classrooms and play rooms. Other buildings include the cafeteria and dormitory. All buildings are connected by long corridors.
Loynia guards the front door. ;-)
The foyer.
Kids often hang out in the foyer looking out the front windows at who is coming and going.
Yuri's 8th grade classroom.
Yuri and Mom hang out in the 8th grade playroom.
Another view of the main building.
Playground tucked between the main building and dormitory.
Soccer field sits behind the complex of Internet buildings.
I couldn't leave Ukraine without showing a photo of a local tradition, painting the bottom 3 or 4 feet of a tree trunk white. Perhaps you've noticed this in other photos. One reason we've heard for doing so is to protect the tree from pests. Some Ukrainian say freshly painted tree trunks are a sign that Spring has arrived. ;-)
Michelle Maly, volunteer at Internot #4 (gray shirt), shows the fourth grade class how to make make a mobile.
A couple of the boys show off their mobiles.
Looking at the main building from outside the fence. This building houses offices, classrooms and play rooms. Other buildings include the cafeteria and dormitory. All buildings are connected by long corridors.
Loynia guards the front door. ;-)
The foyer.
Kids often hang out in the foyer looking out the front windows at who is coming and going.
Renee and Yuri pause to talk in one of the corridors.
Yuri's 8th grade classroom.
Yuri and Mom hang out in the 8th grade playroom.
Another view of the main building.
Playground tucked between the main building and dormitory.
Soccer field sits behind the complex of Internet buildings.
Saturday, April 14, 2007
Property Deed, Souviners and Arcade Games
The official part of our day happened Saturday afternoon. Natlayia, Paul and Yuri went to Babushka's apartment to meet Viktor and Babushka. There, we picked up the deed to Yuri and Viktor's property (a small flat in Odessa) and made copies of it for a special hearing set for Monday.
In the morning, Renee worked while Paul and Yuri went shopping in the park for souvenirs. Originally, we hoped to complete our souvenir shopping in Kiev but, with the extra time on our hands in Odessa, we thought we should get it done now.
This evening, we got together with fellow adopting Americans, the Weddington and the Bratz families. We met at McDonald's for supper. Then, we walked to a fancy new bowling alley only to find out they did not have any lanes for us this evening. So, we walked back to the Greek Square where we found arcade games inside a large toy store. The Ukrainian kids had their fill of games and "window shopping" for cool toys.
The Weddington's invited Yuri to stay overnight with them so their son, Sasha, and Yuri could spend a little more time together before we go our separate ways. Sasha and Yuri are buddies from the Internot going back 4-5 years. The Weddington's are staying at Lela Steel's home and have plenty of room for an extra kid. I guess this is Yuri's first over night as a Berger kid.
The Weddington's walked with us back to our apartment. Yuri packed a bag and then we all walked to the bus stop where the Weddington's caught a bus for Lela's house.
Prayer Request - Keep praying for Monday. That the property issue be resolved and we are able to obtain Yuri's passport and depart Odessa.
In the morning, Renee worked while Paul and Yuri went shopping in the park for souvenirs. Originally, we hoped to complete our souvenir shopping in Kiev but, with the extra time on our hands in Odessa, we thought we should get it done now.
This evening, we got together with fellow adopting Americans, the Weddington and the Bratz families. We met at McDonald's for supper. Then, we walked to a fancy new bowling alley only to find out they did not have any lanes for us this evening. So, we walked back to the Greek Square where we found arcade games inside a large toy store. The Ukrainian kids had their fill of games and "window shopping" for cool toys.
The Weddington's invited Yuri to stay overnight with them so their son, Sasha, and Yuri could spend a little more time together before we go our separate ways. Sasha and Yuri are buddies from the Internot going back 4-5 years. The Weddington's are staying at Lela Steel's home and have plenty of room for an extra kid. I guess this is Yuri's first over night as a Berger kid.
The Weddington's walked with us back to our apartment. Yuri packed a bag and then we all walked to the bus stop where the Weddington's caught a bus for Lela's house.
Prayer Request - Keep praying for Monday. That the property issue be resolved and we are able to obtain Yuri's passport and depart Odessa.
Friday, April 13, 2007
New Birth Certificate and ID for Yuri
Yuri with the new "birth certificate" stating his name as, "Yuri Paul Berger" with Paul and Renee listed as his parents.
The building housing the office where the new birth certificate was issued.
The building housing the register's office which issued Yuri's new identification card. Paul and Natlayia had an appointment at 6:10. The official was about an hour late. (Typical Ukrainian time.) We left this office at 7:30 this evening. Renee and Yuri waited for us in Sasha's taxi.
Today turned out a little differently than we had planned, which, as we all know by now, is normal for adoption trips to the Ukraine. We thought we would make a trip to a bank this morning to close out Yuri's account and transfer the funds to his Babushka (per Yuri's wish). This did not happen.
Instead, the "official" part of our day began about 3 p.m. when Natalyia called to ask us to meet her and Sasha downstairs in five minutes. We jumped in the van headed to an office to sign documents and pick up Yuri's new "birth certificate". (This was the office that was "closed" until 4 p.m. due to the city-wide meeting.) Mission accomplished. By 4 p.m. we were on our way to the notary to have the birth certificate notarized. Check. By 4:35 we were en route to the registers office with notarized birth certificate in hand to request a new citizen identification number for Yuri. (Kind of like our Social Security number.) Check. With our request made, we were to return about 1.5 hours later (or, 6:10 p.m.) to sign for and pick up the new ID card.
At this time, we ran an errand to the airline ticket office to change the departure date of our tickets to Kiev from Saturday morning to Monday night. Check. We ran back to the registers office and entered the building at 6 p.m. for our 6:10 appointment. After a long wait, we were out the door by 7:30 and headed to Afina Mall to Mario's (6th time) for dinner.
Monday is the next key day. With the updated ID card and birth certificate in hand, our facilitators will obtain a new passport for Yuri which we need before we can fly to Kiev and the US Embassy. There are now two issues which remain open and each require their own unique protocol. First, is the issue of Yuri's property. Ukrainian law requires parent's to deed property to their children. When Yuri's mother died, the deed to her apartment was transfered to Yuri and his brother, Viktor. Yuri desires to transfer his share to Viktor. The second open issue is closing Yuri's bank account and transferring the funds to Babushka.
About that countdown we had going regarding the number of days left in Odessa... never mind. ;-)
Prayer Request - With regard to the property and bank account issues--that everything that needs to be satisfied is satisfied and we can get his new passport and depart for Kiev Monday night. Thank you!
Tips to Prepare You for Ukraine
The following tips are based on our experiences while in Ukraine. We are not experts. If you come to Odessa to adopt, you may have different experiences but, our list will at least help prepare you for your trip.
Cell Phone – we rented from Lonnie Rowland (Rowland Enterprises) travel@rowlandent.com or http://www.rowlandent.com/ The phone is delivered to you soon after arriving in Ukraine. At the time that we used the phone, our calls cost $0.20 per minute to call to the US. Handy for use to contact facilitator and other Americans that are in Ukraine. We also tried to use the cell phone to access the internet, but found it was too slow.
Internet – we used IPTelecom as our ISP in both Kiev and Odessa. To use IPTelecom you have to first purchase an internet card from a vendor on the street in either city. The card contains the telephone number that is used to make the dial-up connection. You also have to set up the network connection via Windows to access the IPTelecom telephone number. We did not need to use the dial-up service in Odessa very much because we had a high-speed cable connect at the apartment that we rented from Paul Becker. This was great!
Internet Cafes – Also referred to as, “Internet Clubs”. We only saw the inside of two cafes in downtown Odessa and both were in dark, smoke-filled basements, crowded with teenage kids playing games. The cost is cheap, only 1 Gryvna (.20 cents) for 20 minutes of use. The only issue was finding an open computer and the age of the machine (slow processing speed). But, it is good enough to send basic email if you have no other option. FYI, we could not open our blog at the café because it contained so many pictures.
Apartment – Please see the post on this blog titled, “Our Apartment in Odessa”
Airport VIP Service – We loved it. A representative meets you as soon as you get off the plane and escorts you through the customs process including, express service through waiting lines and guiding you through the custom forms (printed in Russian). When Paul visited Odessa last year, he went through the customs on his own. This can be a lengthy and uncertain process, especially if you don’t know the language or the culture. The cost for VIP service is $65 per person and we thought it worth every penny for the peace of mind and efficiency it offers. You may set it up through Rowland Enterprises, see contact info above.
Skype – Internet phone service. You can use it computer to computer for free or, computer to US phone for $0.17 per minute. If we tried to use Skype using dial up access, computer to computer, we found there to be a delay and/or echo. Also, when calling computer to computer, the machine you are calling has to be on and “open” (that is, someone needs to be waiting by the computer when you are trying to call). We called home every night using Skype or the cell phone (see above). Skype.com
Games – Card and board games are a great way to break the ice and get to know your new son or daughter. It also helps to pass the time. The games you choose will depend on the age of your child. Our favorites are; UNO, Tower (aka, Jenga), Sorry!, and Dominoes.
Books/DVDs – You will have some time on your hands, so don’t forget a novel or a couple movies. In an effort to pack light, we let both behind! We found English books at three different book stores in the city center. We borrowed a few movies from our American friends and played them on our laptop.
Normal schedule and rules – When you have your child living with you, it is tempting to lavish them with clothes, gifts, treats, eating out and sight seeing. This desire is only natural and certainly you have to provide your child what is necessary and have some fun along the way. However, a piece of advice we received was try to maintain your regular schedule and family rules as best you can while living in Ukraine. It is easy for kids in the orphanage to view America as a country where everyone is rich, the streets are paved in gold and you can have all the stuff you want. And, their new American moms and dads are simply walking ATM machines.
For example, we let Yuri choose video games in a store. Soon, he had his hands full of games to take to the check out counter. I said to him, “no, only two” and let him select which two he wanted to keep. Cost was not the issue but, setting a false expectation was. Also, we asked Yuri to do his part cleaning our apartment in Odessa. His job was to vaccum and take out the trash. We set time limits on his computer games and what programs he could watch on TV, just as we would at home.
The point is, while you are in Odessa, you are planting seeds and expectations that will be assumed at home. Your view point may be different than ours. Obviously, this is a big subject that has to do with the differences between living in an orphanage and a family structure, as well as, the differences between Ukrainian and American cultures.
Clothes – Pack light. Two pair of jeans and a pair of khaki pants (for court date) was all Paul needed. Don’t bring anything that needs to be ironed. You can wear a suit to court, if you desire, but it really isn’t necessary. We traveled in early spring so we had to be prepared for winter and spring temps. A few long sleeve shirts and t-shirts, one sweater and a sweat shirt. We did not buy anything for Yuri in advance as we were not sure of his sizes. We shopped for a few things for Yuri in Odessa but held off on most of our purchases until we get home. Clothes here are not cheap and styles that are acceptable in Odessa are different than what is “normal” back home.
220 adapters… Buy Round - You already know Europe uses 220 voltage outlets so, you will need an adaptor. We bought one in the US (flat-face style) and it did not work. The 220 wall outlets have a round, recessed cavity where the adapter or plug fits. The flat-face adapter did not reach into the recessed cavity. We bought our adaptors in Odessa. They have a round extension that fits into the recessed cavity of the wall outlet. If you purchase adaptors ahead of time, make sure they are “the round” kind.
Watch your step - Sidewalks are often broken, uneven or in various stages of construction or repair. There are all sorts of hazzards to step into or trip over if you are not constantly paying attention as you walk. Pigeons, stray dogs and cats leave their mark. It is acceptable and quite common for locals to spit on the side walks... as in every few meters. Wear comfortable shoes. You will do much more walking here than what you are accustom to in the US.
Food – Of course, you probably already know that you should not drink the tap water. Bottled water is plentiful in stores and restaurants. The average Ukrainian prefers soda water. If you prefer your water without bubbles, be sure to ask your waiter for “water-no gas” everyone knows what that means. In stores, look for bottles with light blue lids, this is kind of a code for “no gas”.
The average Ukrainian prefers tea, water and fruit juices over sodas so you will find those beverages in greater supply on the shelves. However, it is still easy to find soda. Coke, Sprite and occasionally Pepsi. The only “diet” soda we have found is “CokeLight” it tastes a lot like “Coke Zero” back home. If you are like us, you will find yourself lugging home 2 liter bottles of drinking water and soda to your apartment on almost a daily basis.
Ukrainians use dill in or one everything. They mix it in salads, they rub it on meat, sprinkle it over vegetables and bread. They also love mayonnaise and use it often in place of ketchup or salad dressing. They use it on french fries instead of ketchup or mix it directly into a salad. If you don’t care for mayo, be sure to ask for it on the side.
About Ketchup. In restaurants, you can order ketchup in packets. Be prepared to pay a little extra for it—this goes for McDonald’s too! Ketchup tastes a little different here than what we are used to the States. In one restaurant, we found ketchup to be referred to as, “Mexican Sauce”.
About salads. Ukrainians do not use green leaf or Romaine lettuce in their salads; we’ve only seen it used as a garnish. Here, a dinner salad usually consists of diced cucumber and tomato with perhaps a bit of ice berg lettuce or red pepper tossed in. If you must have your Ranch, Italian or French dressing, bring your own bottle, they do not have it here. Ukrainians also eat a variety of vegetable salads mixed with mayo and dill.
Fruits and vegetables can be very good here when they are in season. If you are coming in May/June, they tells us the strawberries and cherries are awesome!
For authentic, traditional Ukrainian food, “Kumanets” restaurant on “Gavanna” street in downtown Odessa is the place to go. The food is terrific and the menus are available in English. The wait staff wore traditional costumes and the walls are covered with art and crafts.
The following tips are not ours. They are those of a person who works as a volunteer in Ukraine. Based on our limited experience in Ukraine, we found these tips to be pretty accurate and helpful to our understanding of the culture. For the most part, these tips have been corroborated by other Americans we’ve met who have lived and worked in Ukraine for several years.
Tips for Americans Coming to Ukraine
I have had the benefit of a three month in-country training program to prepare me for the differences that I have encountered. In the notes below, I have tried to give you the highlights of my training and observations over the past 18 months. It is my hope to help get you geared up for your adventure—for that is certainly what it will be at times.
Cultural ConsiderationsPolychronic vs. Monochronic: This facet of Ukrainian culture causes Americans who work or do business here to go absolutely insane if they can't adjust. Ukrainians will almost always be 15-20 minutes late for an appointment. It is completely acceptable here. For events, expect them to start 30 minutes late. Another way that this polychromic nature is affecting and will further affect you is that Ukrainians don't make appointments more than one week in advance. It really doesn't matter how high up you go, it is rare to find a Ukrainian willing to solidly commit to a meeting a month out. They laughed at me when I suggested that we set up meetings for Kevin with the local city government last month. You would think that important people would have such busy schedules that they would have to budget their time. They are busy, but they don't schedule more than a couple of days in advance. So, while the conference is more or less set, meetings that you need to have with organizations and individuals will not happen until the week before. Sorry.
Collective vs. Individual: This society places far more value on the group than the individual. This difference becomes apparent to the American in a number of places. The most noticeable to you will likely be in the amount of personal space maintained between people, getting a solid commitment from someone, the way people think about business and competition, and how people treat the land.First, personal space will be immediately apparent to you. Ukrainians stand much closer to one another when they speak than most Americans. You will likely find people speaking to you at a distance that is just inside your comfort zone. Men, don't automatically assume that she likes you. It may just be the culture. If you are fortunate enough to ride the buses here, you will also experience a new level of closeness with strangers. Being pressed up against a stranger is not stressful for this culture. Second, this culture values saving face over confronting the truth. This will affect you when you ask a potential project partner if they can play a certain role or perform a particular task. Whether they can or not, they will always tell you "yes". You have to read between the lines and ask specific questions that don't require yes or no.Third, you will see vendors in the marketplace selling exactly the same types of fruits and vegetables right next to one another. If, one day, they don't have a particular item that you want, they will send you to the nearest competitor to get it. I have even had my produce lady tell me that her tomatoes were not very fresh. She recommended another vendor who had the best tomatoes that day. Heart warming in a way….Finally, visiting farms, primarily grazing lands, you will notice that farmers do not improve fields. Many pastures will be choked with weeds. This is because no one technically owns the land on which people allow their animals to graze. Farmers believe that if they make improvements to the land, someone with influence and money will come along and take it from them.
Gender Roles: It is sort of like 1940-50s in America. But, it will likely only affect your visit in the following ways:--It is important for men to shake hands with every man in a group. (Never shake hands through a door or entry way) --Ukrainian men will likely not offer to shake hands with women. So, ladies, don't be offended. Those Ukrainian men who have spent any time with me will shake hands with you because they understand the cultural difference.--Some men may not take the female presenters seriously.--Men will be asked what they think of the beautiful Ukrainian women.--Infidelity is acceptable for men and participated in by both genders. They don't perceive it the same as Americans do. You might encounter more flirting than you are comfortable with.
Fatalism: People here do not feel empowered to do anything. They believe that whatever happens will happen and they have no power to change it. The Orange Revolution was a huge step for this country but already people feel like it did no good because their lives are much like they were before the Revolution.This will affect those of you looking to do cooperative projects here. You may see an easy solution to a problem. Most Ukrainians will not believe that it will work here until they see it happen. You have to find the right people to work with and help them along until they see it does work.
Food and Drink: You would never know that Ukraine was a developing country from looking at the dinner table when guests are visiting. You will be treated to more food here than you can possibly consume. Ukrainians are very proud of their national dishes and their ability to provide for guests. They really roll out the red carpet when you visit their homes. If you have a chance to eat in a private home, you must know that to empty your plate is to ask for more food. The same goes for your glass. Alcohol is an integral part of life here. You will see beer, wine, and vodka in places that you won't see it in the States. It is normal to have a drink at almost any time of day if the reasons are right. Please be careful to understand that I don't mean getting drunk. Often Americans hear "have a drink" and they think "get drunk". While that does happen here, Ukrainians use alcohol in a symbolic way as well. To begin a business relationship, Ukrainians expect to have a toast over vodka. In the office at work, colleagues will toast to each other on birthdays. You will be offered alcohol here—no doubt about it. It is not necessary to drink if that is your policy. Let them fill your glass a little. Tell your host that you have a medical condition or religious conviction. Whatever you decide, be consistent. Don't refuse to drink on one occasion and let them see you drink in another. Most Ukrainian men would see this as a sign that you didn't think enough of them to drink with them. Women, you get the easy road out. Women aren't expected to knock them back with the men. They will still pour you a little.
Personal Appearance: This is much more important in Ukraine than most places in the States. Women wear more make-up and high heels, and men wear suits more often than in the States. Many women and girls here dress in a fashion that makes most Americans drop their jaws. Don't make assumptions about the women based on their clothes. It is normal and acceptable to see skin here.
Toilets: I apologize for the blunt nature of this category. I know it seems weird to have a line item for this, but it is shocking to Americans to see Ukrainian toilets. Most public restrooms, if they are available, are Turkish toilets (hole in the floor, sometimes plumbed, sometimes not). Bring some toilet paper or Kleenex and hand wipes.
Walking as a group in public: Particularly important in Kyiv, watch the volume level of your voice. The fact that you speak English makes your voice stand out. This also makes you a target in some places. Try not to walk as one ten-person group. People will know you are a foreigner before you ever say a word, but you can keep from being a target if you are quiet on the street and walk in groups of four or less. I have never had any problems. I feel very safe here, but as a rule, my husband and I don't speak English much in the street or on public transportation. It just draws attention to us that we would rather avoid.
Packing: Most important note: PACK LIGHTLY. Ukrainian infrastructure is not set up for door to door service. You may need to carry your luggage farther than you'd like. Clothes: First, you should know that many people here wear the same outfit many days in a row. You don't need to pack a shirt and pants for every day of the week. I would recommend that men wear khaki pants and dress shirts or polos, weather permitting. There is no expectation that you will wear a suit for this type of conference, but if you want to wear one, no one will find it strange. Women, it is your choice, obviously, I choose not to wear clothes or, more importantly, shoes like the women here. I stick out like a sore thumb, but I have been here long enough for people to get to know me. They may still think, "There goes that oddly dressed American woman." But they take me seriously, I think. Second most important note: PACK REALLY COMFORTABLE SHOES. You will walk more here that you can imagine and the sidewalks are not smooth when they exist.
Incidentals: -- The best piece of advice I was ever given was to never leave home without toilet paper. You may want to bring a roll from the States. Common toilet paper here is like crepe paper. --I also suggest you bring wet wipes. Soap is often lacking in the restrooms.--You need to bring a converter for blow dryers and razors. --You can buy a large assortment of hair and skin products here. --Carry money and your passport in an inside pocket or close to your body. Don't leave your wallet in your back pocket or carry a purse.--It is customary to give token gifts to your hosts (translators also). Last year, the group brought ball caps and T-shirts. Other things you might consider: bottle of American whiskey, a small picture book about your state, pens with logos, shot glasses with logos, maple syrup with pancake recipe, barbecue sauce with recipe, etc.--You can buy bottled water here. Make sure you tell your translator "without gas" for non-carbonated water. Don't drink tap water.
Traveling On the plane: I am sure that most of you know this already. Just in case…. Do your best to sleep on the plane. I have a terrible time getting any sort of rest in populated, cramped spaces, so I understand how this advice may sound. Do what you can, drink wine or take benedryl, sleep will help you adjust to the surroundings when you get here. Once you arrive in Ukraine stay awake until it is bedtime here. Your body will hate you for it, but it will lessen your chances of waking up at 2 a.m. and not being able to get back to sleep.
I realize that this was a rather long and drawn out set of tips. There are so many wonderful and interesting things to notice here. Try to keep an open mind about the cultural differences that you notice—it will keep your blood pressure down.The most important thing for you to do while you are here is relax and enjoy meeting people. Schedules will change at the last minute, people will ask you questions you can't answer, administrators won't show up when they said they would…be flexible.
Cell Phone – we rented from Lonnie Rowland (Rowland Enterprises) travel@rowlandent.com or http://www.rowlandent.com/ The phone is delivered to you soon after arriving in Ukraine. At the time that we used the phone, our calls cost $0.20 per minute to call to the US. Handy for use to contact facilitator and other Americans that are in Ukraine. We also tried to use the cell phone to access the internet, but found it was too slow.
Internet – we used IPTelecom as our ISP in both Kiev and Odessa. To use IPTelecom you have to first purchase an internet card from a vendor on the street in either city. The card contains the telephone number that is used to make the dial-up connection. You also have to set up the network connection via Windows to access the IPTelecom telephone number. We did not need to use the dial-up service in Odessa very much because we had a high-speed cable connect at the apartment that we rented from Paul Becker. This was great!
Internet Cafes – Also referred to as, “Internet Clubs”. We only saw the inside of two cafes in downtown Odessa and both were in dark, smoke-filled basements, crowded with teenage kids playing games. The cost is cheap, only 1 Gryvna (.20 cents) for 20 minutes of use. The only issue was finding an open computer and the age of the machine (slow processing speed). But, it is good enough to send basic email if you have no other option. FYI, we could not open our blog at the café because it contained so many pictures.
Apartment – Please see the post on this blog titled, “Our Apartment in Odessa”
Airport VIP Service – We loved it. A representative meets you as soon as you get off the plane and escorts you through the customs process including, express service through waiting lines and guiding you through the custom forms (printed in Russian). When Paul visited Odessa last year, he went through the customs on his own. This can be a lengthy and uncertain process, especially if you don’t know the language or the culture. The cost for VIP service is $65 per person and we thought it worth every penny for the peace of mind and efficiency it offers. You may set it up through Rowland Enterprises, see contact info above.
Skype – Internet phone service. You can use it computer to computer for free or, computer to US phone for $0.17 per minute. If we tried to use Skype using dial up access, computer to computer, we found there to be a delay and/or echo. Also, when calling computer to computer, the machine you are calling has to be on and “open” (that is, someone needs to be waiting by the computer when you are trying to call). We called home every night using Skype or the cell phone (see above). Skype.com
Games – Card and board games are a great way to break the ice and get to know your new son or daughter. It also helps to pass the time. The games you choose will depend on the age of your child. Our favorites are; UNO, Tower (aka, Jenga), Sorry!, and Dominoes.
Books/DVDs – You will have some time on your hands, so don’t forget a novel or a couple movies. In an effort to pack light, we let both behind! We found English books at three different book stores in the city center. We borrowed a few movies from our American friends and played them on our laptop.
Normal schedule and rules – When you have your child living with you, it is tempting to lavish them with clothes, gifts, treats, eating out and sight seeing. This desire is only natural and certainly you have to provide your child what is necessary and have some fun along the way. However, a piece of advice we received was try to maintain your regular schedule and family rules as best you can while living in Ukraine. It is easy for kids in the orphanage to view America as a country where everyone is rich, the streets are paved in gold and you can have all the stuff you want. And, their new American moms and dads are simply walking ATM machines.
For example, we let Yuri choose video games in a store. Soon, he had his hands full of games to take to the check out counter. I said to him, “no, only two” and let him select which two he wanted to keep. Cost was not the issue but, setting a false expectation was. Also, we asked Yuri to do his part cleaning our apartment in Odessa. His job was to vaccum and take out the trash. We set time limits on his computer games and what programs he could watch on TV, just as we would at home.
The point is, while you are in Odessa, you are planting seeds and expectations that will be assumed at home. Your view point may be different than ours. Obviously, this is a big subject that has to do with the differences between living in an orphanage and a family structure, as well as, the differences between Ukrainian and American cultures.
Clothes – Pack light. Two pair of jeans and a pair of khaki pants (for court date) was all Paul needed. Don’t bring anything that needs to be ironed. You can wear a suit to court, if you desire, but it really isn’t necessary. We traveled in early spring so we had to be prepared for winter and spring temps. A few long sleeve shirts and t-shirts, one sweater and a sweat shirt. We did not buy anything for Yuri in advance as we were not sure of his sizes. We shopped for a few things for Yuri in Odessa but held off on most of our purchases until we get home. Clothes here are not cheap and styles that are acceptable in Odessa are different than what is “normal” back home.
220 adapters… Buy Round - You already know Europe uses 220 voltage outlets so, you will need an adaptor. We bought one in the US (flat-face style) and it did not work. The 220 wall outlets have a round, recessed cavity where the adapter or plug fits. The flat-face adapter did not reach into the recessed cavity. We bought our adaptors in Odessa. They have a round extension that fits into the recessed cavity of the wall outlet. If you purchase adaptors ahead of time, make sure they are “the round” kind.
Watch your step - Sidewalks are often broken, uneven or in various stages of construction or repair. There are all sorts of hazzards to step into or trip over if you are not constantly paying attention as you walk. Pigeons, stray dogs and cats leave their mark. It is acceptable and quite common for locals to spit on the side walks... as in every few meters. Wear comfortable shoes. You will do much more walking here than what you are accustom to in the US.
Food – Of course, you probably already know that you should not drink the tap water. Bottled water is plentiful in stores and restaurants. The average Ukrainian prefers soda water. If you prefer your water without bubbles, be sure to ask your waiter for “water-no gas” everyone knows what that means. In stores, look for bottles with light blue lids, this is kind of a code for “no gas”.
The average Ukrainian prefers tea, water and fruit juices over sodas so you will find those beverages in greater supply on the shelves. However, it is still easy to find soda. Coke, Sprite and occasionally Pepsi. The only “diet” soda we have found is “CokeLight” it tastes a lot like “Coke Zero” back home. If you are like us, you will find yourself lugging home 2 liter bottles of drinking water and soda to your apartment on almost a daily basis.
Ukrainians use dill in or one everything. They mix it in salads, they rub it on meat, sprinkle it over vegetables and bread. They also love mayonnaise and use it often in place of ketchup or salad dressing. They use it on french fries instead of ketchup or mix it directly into a salad. If you don’t care for mayo, be sure to ask for it on the side.
About Ketchup. In restaurants, you can order ketchup in packets. Be prepared to pay a little extra for it—this goes for McDonald’s too! Ketchup tastes a little different here than what we are used to the States. In one restaurant, we found ketchup to be referred to as, “Mexican Sauce”.
About salads. Ukrainians do not use green leaf or Romaine lettuce in their salads; we’ve only seen it used as a garnish. Here, a dinner salad usually consists of diced cucumber and tomato with perhaps a bit of ice berg lettuce or red pepper tossed in. If you must have your Ranch, Italian or French dressing, bring your own bottle, they do not have it here. Ukrainians also eat a variety of vegetable salads mixed with mayo and dill.
Fruits and vegetables can be very good here when they are in season. If you are coming in May/June, they tells us the strawberries and cherries are awesome!
For authentic, traditional Ukrainian food, “Kumanets” restaurant on “Gavanna” street in downtown Odessa is the place to go. The food is terrific and the menus are available in English. The wait staff wore traditional costumes and the walls are covered with art and crafts.
The following tips are not ours. They are those of a person who works as a volunteer in Ukraine. Based on our limited experience in Ukraine, we found these tips to be pretty accurate and helpful to our understanding of the culture. For the most part, these tips have been corroborated by other Americans we’ve met who have lived and worked in Ukraine for several years.
Tips for Americans Coming to Ukraine
I have had the benefit of a three month in-country training program to prepare me for the differences that I have encountered. In the notes below, I have tried to give you the highlights of my training and observations over the past 18 months. It is my hope to help get you geared up for your adventure—for that is certainly what it will be at times.
Cultural ConsiderationsPolychronic vs. Monochronic: This facet of Ukrainian culture causes Americans who work or do business here to go absolutely insane if they can't adjust. Ukrainians will almost always be 15-20 minutes late for an appointment. It is completely acceptable here. For events, expect them to start 30 minutes late. Another way that this polychromic nature is affecting and will further affect you is that Ukrainians don't make appointments more than one week in advance. It really doesn't matter how high up you go, it is rare to find a Ukrainian willing to solidly commit to a meeting a month out. They laughed at me when I suggested that we set up meetings for Kevin with the local city government last month. You would think that important people would have such busy schedules that they would have to budget their time. They are busy, but they don't schedule more than a couple of days in advance. So, while the conference is more or less set, meetings that you need to have with organizations and individuals will not happen until the week before. Sorry.
Collective vs. Individual: This society places far more value on the group than the individual. This difference becomes apparent to the American in a number of places. The most noticeable to you will likely be in the amount of personal space maintained between people, getting a solid commitment from someone, the way people think about business and competition, and how people treat the land.First, personal space will be immediately apparent to you. Ukrainians stand much closer to one another when they speak than most Americans. You will likely find people speaking to you at a distance that is just inside your comfort zone. Men, don't automatically assume that she likes you. It may just be the culture. If you are fortunate enough to ride the buses here, you will also experience a new level of closeness with strangers. Being pressed up against a stranger is not stressful for this culture. Second, this culture values saving face over confronting the truth. This will affect you when you ask a potential project partner if they can play a certain role or perform a particular task. Whether they can or not, they will always tell you "yes". You have to read between the lines and ask specific questions that don't require yes or no.Third, you will see vendors in the marketplace selling exactly the same types of fruits and vegetables right next to one another. If, one day, they don't have a particular item that you want, they will send you to the nearest competitor to get it. I have even had my produce lady tell me that her tomatoes were not very fresh. She recommended another vendor who had the best tomatoes that day. Heart warming in a way….Finally, visiting farms, primarily grazing lands, you will notice that farmers do not improve fields. Many pastures will be choked with weeds. This is because no one technically owns the land on which people allow their animals to graze. Farmers believe that if they make improvements to the land, someone with influence and money will come along and take it from them.
Gender Roles: It is sort of like 1940-50s in America. But, it will likely only affect your visit in the following ways:--It is important for men to shake hands with every man in a group. (Never shake hands through a door or entry way) --Ukrainian men will likely not offer to shake hands with women. So, ladies, don't be offended. Those Ukrainian men who have spent any time with me will shake hands with you because they understand the cultural difference.--Some men may not take the female presenters seriously.--Men will be asked what they think of the beautiful Ukrainian women.--Infidelity is acceptable for men and participated in by both genders. They don't perceive it the same as Americans do. You might encounter more flirting than you are comfortable with.
Fatalism: People here do not feel empowered to do anything. They believe that whatever happens will happen and they have no power to change it. The Orange Revolution was a huge step for this country but already people feel like it did no good because their lives are much like they were before the Revolution.This will affect those of you looking to do cooperative projects here. You may see an easy solution to a problem. Most Ukrainians will not believe that it will work here until they see it happen. You have to find the right people to work with and help them along until they see it does work.
Food and Drink: You would never know that Ukraine was a developing country from looking at the dinner table when guests are visiting. You will be treated to more food here than you can possibly consume. Ukrainians are very proud of their national dishes and their ability to provide for guests. They really roll out the red carpet when you visit their homes. If you have a chance to eat in a private home, you must know that to empty your plate is to ask for more food. The same goes for your glass. Alcohol is an integral part of life here. You will see beer, wine, and vodka in places that you won't see it in the States. It is normal to have a drink at almost any time of day if the reasons are right. Please be careful to understand that I don't mean getting drunk. Often Americans hear "have a drink" and they think "get drunk". While that does happen here, Ukrainians use alcohol in a symbolic way as well. To begin a business relationship, Ukrainians expect to have a toast over vodka. In the office at work, colleagues will toast to each other on birthdays. You will be offered alcohol here—no doubt about it. It is not necessary to drink if that is your policy. Let them fill your glass a little. Tell your host that you have a medical condition or religious conviction. Whatever you decide, be consistent. Don't refuse to drink on one occasion and let them see you drink in another. Most Ukrainian men would see this as a sign that you didn't think enough of them to drink with them. Women, you get the easy road out. Women aren't expected to knock them back with the men. They will still pour you a little.
Personal Appearance: This is much more important in Ukraine than most places in the States. Women wear more make-up and high heels, and men wear suits more often than in the States. Many women and girls here dress in a fashion that makes most Americans drop their jaws. Don't make assumptions about the women based on their clothes. It is normal and acceptable to see skin here.
Toilets: I apologize for the blunt nature of this category. I know it seems weird to have a line item for this, but it is shocking to Americans to see Ukrainian toilets. Most public restrooms, if they are available, are Turkish toilets (hole in the floor, sometimes plumbed, sometimes not). Bring some toilet paper or Kleenex and hand wipes.
Walking as a group in public: Particularly important in Kyiv, watch the volume level of your voice. The fact that you speak English makes your voice stand out. This also makes you a target in some places. Try not to walk as one ten-person group. People will know you are a foreigner before you ever say a word, but you can keep from being a target if you are quiet on the street and walk in groups of four or less. I have never had any problems. I feel very safe here, but as a rule, my husband and I don't speak English much in the street or on public transportation. It just draws attention to us that we would rather avoid.
Packing: Most important note: PACK LIGHTLY. Ukrainian infrastructure is not set up for door to door service. You may need to carry your luggage farther than you'd like. Clothes: First, you should know that many people here wear the same outfit many days in a row. You don't need to pack a shirt and pants for every day of the week. I would recommend that men wear khaki pants and dress shirts or polos, weather permitting. There is no expectation that you will wear a suit for this type of conference, but if you want to wear one, no one will find it strange. Women, it is your choice, obviously, I choose not to wear clothes or, more importantly, shoes like the women here. I stick out like a sore thumb, but I have been here long enough for people to get to know me. They may still think, "There goes that oddly dressed American woman." But they take me seriously, I think. Second most important note: PACK REALLY COMFORTABLE SHOES. You will walk more here that you can imagine and the sidewalks are not smooth when they exist.
Incidentals: -- The best piece of advice I was ever given was to never leave home without toilet paper. You may want to bring a roll from the States. Common toilet paper here is like crepe paper. --I also suggest you bring wet wipes. Soap is often lacking in the restrooms.--You need to bring a converter for blow dryers and razors. --You can buy a large assortment of hair and skin products here. --Carry money and your passport in an inside pocket or close to your body. Don't leave your wallet in your back pocket or carry a purse.--It is customary to give token gifts to your hosts (translators also). Last year, the group brought ball caps and T-shirts. Other things you might consider: bottle of American whiskey, a small picture book about your state, pens with logos, shot glasses with logos, maple syrup with pancake recipe, barbecue sauce with recipe, etc.--You can buy bottled water here. Make sure you tell your translator "without gas" for non-carbonated water. Don't drink tap water.
Traveling On the plane: I am sure that most of you know this already. Just in case…. Do your best to sleep on the plane. I have a terrible time getting any sort of rest in populated, cramped spaces, so I understand how this advice may sound. Do what you can, drink wine or take benedryl, sleep will help you adjust to the surroundings when you get here. Once you arrive in Ukraine stay awake until it is bedtime here. Your body will hate you for it, but it will lessen your chances of waking up at 2 a.m. and not being able to get back to sleep.
I realize that this was a rather long and drawn out set of tips. There are so many wonderful and interesting things to notice here. Try to keep an open mind about the cultural differences that you notice—it will keep your blood pressure down.The most important thing for you to do while you are here is relax and enjoy meeting people. Schedules will change at the last minute, people will ask you questions you can't answer, administrators won't show up when they said they would…be flexible.
Thursday, April 12, 2007
Prayer Request
At 6:00 p.m. Thursday we learned that we may have trouble changing Yuri's name on all of his documents (birth certificate, passport, apartment title, etc...) tomorrow because a meeting has been scheduled for all of the officials that usually process these documents. The meeting is supposed to be done at 2:00 p.m. If we cannot start the changes until 2:00 p.m. we will have to stay in Odessa until Monday evening. We would not be able to start processing at the US Embassy until Tuesday morning, and thus delay our departure for home another day.
Please pray that we are somehow able to get Yuri's name changed on all of his documents on Friday. Also pray that we are given God's peace about the situation, even if we need to wait until Monday to finish the documents. Thank you!
Please pray that we are somehow able to get Yuri's name changed on all of his documents on Friday. Also pray that we are given God's peace about the situation, even if we need to wait until Monday to finish the documents. Thank you!
Wednesday, April 11, Yuri's Class Party
As I write, it is about 2 p.m. Thursday. No, we did not make the trip to the castle ruins today. We will save that tour for another time. (Whatever that means.) Our facilitator is working on our documents and running an errand to the court today. We decided to stay close "just in case". This morning, Paul did "laundry", Renee cleaned the bathroom and Yuri vacuumed. Now, Renee and Yuri are involved in a game of checkers while I make this post.
The Party
The menu, created by Yuri, was fit for a guest list of 8th graders. Three kinds of cookies, hard candies, chocolate candy, fruit and soda--"real" Coke and Sprite, not that generic stuff. ;-) I think the fruit was the adults idea. We are told the kids do not get a lot of fresh fruits at the Internot.
In the playroom, the tables are set and ready for guests. Paul and a few 8th grade boys hauled in extra chairs from the 8th grade class room. Yuri and his buddy, Sasha, peeled the oranges, squirting each other with the occasional shot of juice. Mom cut the fruit while Paul and Sam Weddington set the table.
Paul pours a second round of soda.
Sasha (who is being adopted by the Weddington's of Florida), Dima, Pasha, Yuri and Daniel, who appeared with Yuri in the basketball photo the other day. You might recall from a previous post that we bought a basketball in Odessa so we could shoot hoops at the Internot. We told Yuri we already have 3 or 4 basketballs in the garage at home and gave him the choice to keep this ball or leave it at the Internot. Yuri decided to give the ball to his friend, Daniel who really enjoys hoops. ;-)
Artyom, Yuri and Maxim. Yuri tells us that Artyom is a very good artist. Artyom does well enough academically to attend a different school in the city but he lives at the Internot.
Lyosha and Yuri. There are girls in the 8th grade but, Yuri didn't seem to want to have a picture taken with any of them. ;-)
Roma... he gave Paul a hug before we left.
Tatyana (translator), Tatyana (supervisor), Yuri, Svetlana (supervisor), Lela Steel (American and sponsor of 8th grade class) and Ludmila (supervisor).
Svetlana, supervisor at left, was nice enough to share a couple letters written by Yuri when he was a young boy. The letters were fifth grade class assignment and the purpose was to write about your future goals or wishes. Tatyana, left, translated them for us. A partial transcript is as follows:
"I like to build houses, I think it's a very good job.... I will have a normal wife whose name will be Svetlana. I will have two kids. A boy, Oleg and a girl, Lida.... I also will have two dogs, a male, Bolto and a female, Tina."
The Party
The menu, created by Yuri, was fit for a guest list of 8th graders. Three kinds of cookies, hard candies, chocolate candy, fruit and soda--"real" Coke and Sprite, not that generic stuff. ;-) I think the fruit was the adults idea. We are told the kids do not get a lot of fresh fruits at the Internot.
In the playroom, the tables are set and ready for guests. Paul and a few 8th grade boys hauled in extra chairs from the 8th grade class room. Yuri and his buddy, Sasha, peeled the oranges, squirting each other with the occasional shot of juice. Mom cut the fruit while Paul and Sam Weddington set the table.
Paul pours a second round of soda.
Sasha (who is being adopted by the Weddington's of Florida), Dima, Pasha, Yuri and Daniel, who appeared with Yuri in the basketball photo the other day. You might recall from a previous post that we bought a basketball in Odessa so we could shoot hoops at the Internot. We told Yuri we already have 3 or 4 basketballs in the garage at home and gave him the choice to keep this ball or leave it at the Internot. Yuri decided to give the ball to his friend, Daniel who really enjoys hoops. ;-)
Artyom, Yuri and Maxim. Yuri tells us that Artyom is a very good artist. Artyom does well enough academically to attend a different school in the city but he lives at the Internot.
Lyosha and Yuri. There are girls in the 8th grade but, Yuri didn't seem to want to have a picture taken with any of them. ;-)
Roma... he gave Paul a hug before we left.
Tatyana (translator), Tatyana (supervisor), Yuri, Svetlana (supervisor), Lela Steel (American and sponsor of 8th grade class) and Ludmila (supervisor).
Svetlana, supervisor at left, was nice enough to share a couple letters written by Yuri when he was a young boy. The letters were fifth grade class assignment and the purpose was to write about your future goals or wishes. Tatyana, left, translated them for us. A partial transcript is as follows:
"I like to build houses, I think it's a very good job.... I will have a normal wife whose name will be Svetlana. I will have two kids. A boy, Oleg and a girl, Lida.... I also will have two dogs, a male, Bolto and a female, Tina."
Parties like this can be a little awkward for all involved. Joy mixed with sadness. The supervisors are happy for the child to be adopted but they will miss them. As for the kids, not every child in the Internot is eligible for adoption. They might be jealous of those who can leave the country. Others, who are eligible, hold on to the hope they too will have a going away party and a family to love them.
Note to First Covenant Sunday school kids: many months ago, you made gift bags for the kids at the Internot. We carried all 28 bags with us to Odessa and gave them away at Yuri's party. Sorry, we do not have pictures of the kids with the bags. You made so many bags, we had left overs that we gave to Lela Steel to give to other children as she sees fit. The kids loved the bags and say "Thank you"!
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
"You guys receive blessings fom above!"
Ukrainian flags were displayed all over the city today in recognition of the Odessa's liberation from the Nazi's on April 10, 1945.
Yuri with his classmate and friend, Daniel.
Today turned out differently than we had planned. Instead of touring the ruins of an ancient castle fort, we ended up running an errand to court! OK, it's not that bad really. It was a good day. Our facilitator, Nataliya, called this morning to inform us we have an appointment at the Notary's office at 4 p.m. This came as a surprise to us as nothing official was scheduled until Friday. However, the powers that be thought it a good idea to get a head start on the documents required to change Yuri's name. Anything to help us complete all our work in one day on Friday sounded like a good idea to us!
We called Lela Steel this morning to schedule a going away party for Yuri's classmates. Lela suggested we meet at the Internot at 2 p.m. to talk to the officials about the party. We arrived at 2 p.m. sharp. Natalyia, Lela and Renee went inside to get permission and a date for the party. Yuri and Paul went to the basketball court to shoot hoops. Later, Yuri's friend, Daniel joined us. The party is set for 3 p.m. Wednesday. We departed the Internot and ran an errand to the Court building where Natalyia made a request for a document we need on Friday. We ended up at the Notary office a bit early and had time to run an errand at a market and have refreshments at a local cafe.
We are not sure what provoked the following comment from Nataliya (maybe it is best we don't know the details) but, as we drove to the court, Nataliya remarked emphatically, "You guys receive blessings from above! Doors open, miracles happen. It must be all your positive thinking!" We replied, "Actually, we are praying hard and a lot of people back home are praying for us also." So, to you back home we say, thank you and please keep it up!
Once at the Notary, everything was going smoothly until the power went down taking the computers with it of course. The woman who was processing our document had some kind of auxiliary power supply for her PC and was able to continue work on our behalf. We signed a document and at 4:30 p.m. we walked to the railway station to inquire about train and bus schedules for the castle fort. We might make this trip Thursday.
This evening, we had dinner at, "Pizza City" about a block north of Afina Mall. They have a light, fresh menu with much more than just pizza. On the way home, we stopped at the grocery store to pick up party supplies and treats. Tonight, we all enjoyed the renewed access to high-speed internet access. And... we did a few more loads of laundry!
Only three more days in Odessa!
Prayer Request - For tomorrow's party--that it go smoothly and without difficulty. That Yuri and all the kids enjoy themselves and are able to share some meaningful time together. And, for a successful day Friday, processing the final documents needed for our departure. Thanks!
Monday, April 9, 2007
Four days left in Odessa
We think it is time to begin counting down the days!
Paul retrieved Yuri from Babushka's apartment and he had a very nice weekend with family and friends. Babushka appreciated the Easter Cakes and flowers. While Paul picked up Yuri, the Becker's invited Renee over to work on their high-speed internet connection and do a couple loads of laundry in their machine (very nice). Paul did a little more laundry at home and then, fit in a work out at the Ptomkin Steps. The sun was bright and the air was crystal clear so, the sea looked beautiful today! We had dinner, cafeteria style, at the Afina Mall then shopped for more groceries. Paul and Yuri paid a visit to the Becker's this evening and Renee enjoyed a novel.
Tomorrow, we plan to travel to a neighboring town to tour the ruins of an old castle that dates back to four centuries before Christ. Yuri and Paul are looking forward to it--must be a guy thing). Renee might be happier at home with the laptop enjoying the return of our high-speed internet connection. Maybe Paul can post more photos tomorrow night!
Prayer request - For an efficient day on Friday!
Paul retrieved Yuri from Babushka's apartment and he had a very nice weekend with family and friends. Babushka appreciated the Easter Cakes and flowers. While Paul picked up Yuri, the Becker's invited Renee over to work on their high-speed internet connection and do a couple loads of laundry in their machine (very nice). Paul did a little more laundry at home and then, fit in a work out at the Ptomkin Steps. The sun was bright and the air was crystal clear so, the sea looked beautiful today! We had dinner, cafeteria style, at the Afina Mall then shopped for more groceries. Paul and Yuri paid a visit to the Becker's this evening and Renee enjoyed a novel.
Tomorrow, we plan to travel to a neighboring town to tour the ruins of an old castle that dates back to four centuries before Christ. Yuri and Paul are looking forward to it--must be a guy thing). Renee might be happier at home with the laptop enjoying the return of our high-speed internet connection. Maybe Paul can post more photos tomorrow night!
Prayer request - For an efficient day on Friday!
Sunday, April 8, 2007
Easter Sunrise Service
Last night, we decided we were officially tired—I mean really tired-- of being in Ukraine. To this point, we had always managed to stay positive and find ways to appreciate or enjoy our time in Odessa. But, last night we ached to be home. We miss our three biological children terribly and imagine how good it will feel to hug them tightly in our arms. Then, came Sunday morning.
Michelle invited us to sunrise worship service in Shevchenko Park with a small group of American worshipers. We met her on the street in front of our apartment and hailed a cab. On the way, we saw many local people carrying baskets draped with colorful clothes. We were told the baskets carried Easter bread and bottles of water or wine. The people were taking the baskets to their local Greek Orthodox Church to be blessed by a priest. Or, in some cases, the people might be returning home after an all night service at the church.
At the park, we gathered near a monument—a tall obelisk with an eternal flame and withered bouquets of flowers at its base. The monument honors Soviet sailors who gave their lives during WWII and over looks the Black Sea. A marble bench surrounds the obelisk. We spread our blankets over the cold marble and prepared for worship. The air was crisp, the water placid and the sun’s rays worked their way through the clouds. The setting was serene. Hopeful. Just the right spot for a sunrise service.
We listened to the Resurrection story and sang familiar hymns like, “Christ The Lord Is Risen Today,” “Where You There” and “Because He Lives”. The happy chirping of birds and the triumphant peal of the city’s church bells added their praise to the service.
After the benediction, we chatted with fellow worshipers, getting to know each other over a thermos of hot coffee. We walked home, making our way over cobble stone streets and up crumbling steps, enjoying the conversation and company of new friends.
We were reminded through hymns, God’s word and the fellowship of believer’s that God loves us more than we can know. We found enough peace and reassurance in to help us get through 10 more days or, until we are home. Thank you for the invitation, Michelle!
Cargo Ships on the Black Sea.
Fruit blossoms in Shevchenko Park.
Walking home after the sunrise service on a narrow, cobble stone street.
Michelle invited us to sunrise worship service in Shevchenko Park with a small group of American worshipers. We met her on the street in front of our apartment and hailed a cab. On the way, we saw many local people carrying baskets draped with colorful clothes. We were told the baskets carried Easter bread and bottles of water or wine. The people were taking the baskets to their local Greek Orthodox Church to be blessed by a priest. Or, in some cases, the people might be returning home after an all night service at the church.
At the park, we gathered near a monument—a tall obelisk with an eternal flame and withered bouquets of flowers at its base. The monument honors Soviet sailors who gave their lives during WWII and over looks the Black Sea. A marble bench surrounds the obelisk. We spread our blankets over the cold marble and prepared for worship. The air was crisp, the water placid and the sun’s rays worked their way through the clouds. The setting was serene. Hopeful. Just the right spot for a sunrise service.
We listened to the Resurrection story and sang familiar hymns like, “Christ The Lord Is Risen Today,” “Where You There” and “Because He Lives”. The happy chirping of birds and the triumphant peal of the city’s church bells added their praise to the service.
After the benediction, we chatted with fellow worshipers, getting to know each other over a thermos of hot coffee. We walked home, making our way over cobble stone streets and up crumbling steps, enjoying the conversation and company of new friends.
We were reminded through hymns, God’s word and the fellowship of believer’s that God loves us more than we can know. We found enough peace and reassurance in to help us get through 10 more days or, until we are home. Thank you for the invitation, Michelle!
Cargo Ships on the Black Sea.
Fruit blossoms in Shevchenko Park.
Walking home after the sunrise service on a narrow, cobble stone street.
Saturday, April 7, 2007
“Easter Cakes” and “Chariots of Fire”
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Easter Cakes and Red Carnations for Babushka
This morning, Paul and Yuri ran to the market to pick up a couple of “Easter Cakes”. Easter cakes are a Ukrainian tradition. The cakes look like round towers topped with frosting and sprinkles. They come in different sizes and you find them in all the stores before Easter. Renee and I did not try one but, like most Ukrainian cakes, they appear to be dry and a little hard.
On their way home from the store, Paul and Yuri cut through the park and bought flowers for Yuri to give to Babushka. There was no doubt in Yuri’s mind what color the flowers should be. Red is the favorite color of Yuri, Babushka, Renee and Paul. Yesterday, we bought an Easter card and we all signed our names in English and Russian.
Sasha arrived in his Taxi and Paul escorted Yuri to visit his Babushka one more time before he departs for America. Yuri’s brother, Viktor, lives in the same building as Babushka so, Yuri will spend Easter weekend with the both of them.
While Paul was out, Renee bought tickets for our flight to Kiev. (Yeah! We are getting closer to being home!) Renee also bought a couple novels (in English) to help pass time between now and our arrival back home.
This afternoon, Renee and I enjoyed the DVD of “Chariots of Fire”. Neither of us have seen it since it debuted in 1981. We forgot how good it was. Later, we ran to the market to stock up on groceries. We think the stores might be closed Sunday through Monday to observe the Easter Holiday and we did not want to get caught short on food. And, as always, we continue to do laundry in the sink!
Note, our high-speed internet is down, limiting our ability to post a lot of photos Paul had planned to post. So, we are making our posts the old fashioned way… dial up. We hope to be back up with high-speed by Tuesday.
As always, thank you for taking time out of your busy lives to post your comments or to send email. We love hearing from you!
This morning, Paul and Yuri ran to the market to pick up a couple of “Easter Cakes”. Easter cakes are a Ukrainian tradition. The cakes look like round towers topped with frosting and sprinkles. They come in different sizes and you find them in all the stores before Easter. Renee and I did not try one but, like most Ukrainian cakes, they appear to be dry and a little hard.
On their way home from the store, Paul and Yuri cut through the park and bought flowers for Yuri to give to Babushka. There was no doubt in Yuri’s mind what color the flowers should be. Red is the favorite color of Yuri, Babushka, Renee and Paul. Yesterday, we bought an Easter card and we all signed our names in English and Russian.
Sasha arrived in his Taxi and Paul escorted Yuri to visit his Babushka one more time before he departs for America. Yuri’s brother, Viktor, lives in the same building as Babushka so, Yuri will spend Easter weekend with the both of them.
While Paul was out, Renee bought tickets for our flight to Kiev. (Yeah! We are getting closer to being home!) Renee also bought a couple novels (in English) to help pass time between now and our arrival back home.
This afternoon, Renee and I enjoyed the DVD of “Chariots of Fire”. Neither of us have seen it since it debuted in 1981. We forgot how good it was. Later, we ran to the market to stock up on groceries. We think the stores might be closed Sunday through Monday to observe the Easter Holiday and we did not want to get caught short on food. And, as always, we continue to do laundry in the sink!
Note, our high-speed internet is down, limiting our ability to post a lot of photos Paul had planned to post. So, we are making our posts the old fashioned way… dial up. We hope to be back up with high-speed by Tuesday.
As always, thank you for taking time out of your busy lives to post your comments or to send email. We love hearing from you!
Prayer Requests - For Yuri as he spends this weekend saying good-bye to his Ukrainian family. For our family back home spending Easter weekend without us. Finally, please begin praying for a productive day on Friday, April 13. That is the day when Yuri’s birth certificate will be updated with his new last name, notarized and registered. Each of these steps occurs at different offices across the city. Pray that we will complete all of these steps in one day so we can fly to Kiev on Saturday. Thank you!
The Russian Alphabet - Tips
Good luck reading street signs (or any sign for that matter) if you don’t know a little about the Russian alphabet. Sure, you can make a successful adoption trip to Odessa without knowing Russian or how to read a street sign. Your facilitator/translator/driver will lead you around and take care of everything for you. However, I found it helpful to at least try and learn the Russian alphabet and pronunciation of each letter.
When you arrive in Ukraine, you are a stranger in a strange land. I found that if I could do something as simple as read a sign, suddenly, I felt a little less stress and a little more connected to my environment. Your facilitator will not be able to be with you every time you need to run to the market or go out to eat. For example, when you are hungry, it is nice to know the store with the sign reading, “Pectopah” is actually a “restaurant.” Or, when reading the name tag of the person waiting on your table, you understand their name to be, “Sasha” and not “Cawa”. ;-)
Tip
I went to rustran.com and found a cool cheat sheet listing the Russian letter (cap and lower case), how to pronounce it and an example as used in a word. I carried this sheet in my back pocket and referenced it quite often the first week or two of my stay. It became a game to try and read every sign I saw. Since I am a graphic artist, I like letter-types, logos and enjoy looking at signs in any language. By profession, I am predisposed to think this is fun.
Soon, my little game became more of an obsession. Holding the crumpled cheat sheet in my hands while riding in the taxi--eyes darting back and forth from sign to sheet, then sheet to sign. Eyes squinting. Lips moving without making a sound. I looked like Forrest Gump on a European Vacation. I finally had to leave the cheat sheet at home. (I’m past the obsession stage.)
Even if you don’t have a cheat sheet, here are a few tips to get you started.
The first thing you need to know: The Russian alphabet has nothing in common with our English alphabet. The fact that a few letters (A, K, M, O, T) of both alphabets look the same and are pronounced the same is strictly coincidence.
This next tip is a warning: Some letters of the Russian alphabet look familiar to us but are pronounced very differently. In Russian, a “c” makes a sound like an “s”. A capital “B” makes the “V” sound as in “vine”. But, a lower case “b” (with a flag pointing right) makes the “b” sound as in “bit.” What looks like an “H” to us is really an “N”. Or, a lower case “r” is really a “G”. It goes on…
The Russian alphabet appears to borrow a few letters from the Greek alphabet. For those of you who pledged Greek in your college days, you’ll see some old friends. The symbol for “Pi” is the letter representing the “P” sound and the symbol for “Phi” makes the “F” sound.
For added interest, the Russian alphabet throws in a few “picture-like” letters. For example, they have a letter that looks like a little Dutch house that makes the “D” sound as in “domicile” (get it?). And, a spider-looking letter called, “zheh” that makes the “zh” sound as in “pleasure”. For added confusion, the Russian alphabet takes some of our English letters and numbers and flips them backward! A backward “R” makes the “yah” as in “yard”. A backward number “3” makes the “z” sound as in “zoo”.
On second thought, maybe you are better off just ignoring the Russian alphabet and let a professional take care of it for you. If your facilitator is away and you need a translator in Odessa, contact Julia Baskova at jbaskova@yahoo.com
Oh, by the way, the street sign in the picture at the top of this post marks the corner of “Gretskaya" and “Preobrashenskaya" streets--or, something pretty close to that. My apologies if I am wrong. ;-)
When you arrive in Ukraine, you are a stranger in a strange land. I found that if I could do something as simple as read a sign, suddenly, I felt a little less stress and a little more connected to my environment. Your facilitator will not be able to be with you every time you need to run to the market or go out to eat. For example, when you are hungry, it is nice to know the store with the sign reading, “Pectopah” is actually a “restaurant.” Or, when reading the name tag of the person waiting on your table, you understand their name to be, “Sasha” and not “Cawa”. ;-)
Tip
I went to rustran.com and found a cool cheat sheet listing the Russian letter (cap and lower case), how to pronounce it and an example as used in a word. I carried this sheet in my back pocket and referenced it quite often the first week or two of my stay. It became a game to try and read every sign I saw. Since I am a graphic artist, I like letter-types, logos and enjoy looking at signs in any language. By profession, I am predisposed to think this is fun.
Soon, my little game became more of an obsession. Holding the crumpled cheat sheet in my hands while riding in the taxi--eyes darting back and forth from sign to sheet, then sheet to sign. Eyes squinting. Lips moving without making a sound. I looked like Forrest Gump on a European Vacation. I finally had to leave the cheat sheet at home. (I’m past the obsession stage.)
Even if you don’t have a cheat sheet, here are a few tips to get you started.
The first thing you need to know: The Russian alphabet has nothing in common with our English alphabet. The fact that a few letters (A, K, M, O, T) of both alphabets look the same and are pronounced the same is strictly coincidence.
This next tip is a warning: Some letters of the Russian alphabet look familiar to us but are pronounced very differently. In Russian, a “c” makes a sound like an “s”. A capital “B” makes the “V” sound as in “vine”. But, a lower case “b” (with a flag pointing right) makes the “b” sound as in “bit.” What looks like an “H” to us is really an “N”. Or, a lower case “r” is really a “G”. It goes on…
The Russian alphabet appears to borrow a few letters from the Greek alphabet. For those of you who pledged Greek in your college days, you’ll see some old friends. The symbol for “Pi” is the letter representing the “P” sound and the symbol for “Phi” makes the “F” sound.
For added interest, the Russian alphabet throws in a few “picture-like” letters. For example, they have a letter that looks like a little Dutch house that makes the “D” sound as in “domicile” (get it?). And, a spider-looking letter called, “zheh” that makes the “zh” sound as in “pleasure”. For added confusion, the Russian alphabet takes some of our English letters and numbers and flips them backward! A backward “R” makes the “yah” as in “yard”. A backward number “3” makes the “z” sound as in “zoo”.
On second thought, maybe you are better off just ignoring the Russian alphabet and let a professional take care of it for you. If your facilitator is away and you need a translator in Odessa, contact Julia Baskova at jbaskova@yahoo.com
Oh, by the way, the street sign in the picture at the top of this post marks the corner of “Gretskaya" and “Preobrashenskaya" streets--or, something pretty close to that. My apologies if I am wrong. ;-)
Friday, April 6, 2007
Good Friday with Sergey and Julia
Sergey and Julia Yarovoy, Renee, Paul and Yuri. Tea and torte for breakfast is a great way to start your day.
Yuri and Paul with fresh hair cuts.
This morning, we met with Julia and Sergey Yarovoy at a local cafe for late breakfast. When Paul visited Odessa in August of 2006, Julia served as his translator/tour guide. We used this meeting to become better acquainted with the Yarovoy's and to learn about their work with youth in Odessa, including a ministry to kids living on the street. Sergey does not speak English but, he understands quite a bit. Julia served as translator during our meeting.
Julia also works as an English instructor, tutoring kids at the Internot who have been selected for adoption. We hired Julia to work with Yuri for a few months prior to our arrival and found it very beneficial. If you are planning to adopt from Internot #4 and want to know more about Julia's tutoring services, send us an email and we can put you in touch with her.
Paul mentioned to Julia that he and Yuri both needed hair cuts and could she help us find a suitable salon? Sergey smiled and said, "I'm getting my hair cut today. Do you want to come with me?" We gladly followed Sergey to his stylist. We spent the next couple hours running errands downtown with Julia, who translated for us. Then we invited her to have late lunch with us at Mario's (We lost count but we think that is our 5th meal at Mario's.)
Now, it's back to the apartment to check email and make our post. Yuri selected a photo of himself with his new Mom and Dad. Paul will make duplicate prints which Yuri will give to his supervisors at the Internot. Bit-by-bit, Yuri is using more English and gaining confidence. Tomorrow, Yuri is off to Babushka's apartment to spend Easter weekend.
Thursday, April 5, 2007
The Catacombs of Odessa
On Wednesday, we took an excursion bus to the Catacomb Museum located on the north edge of the city. More on that below. Wednesday evening, we went to services at the Vineyard church plant. After services, Michelle came to our apartment and we baked pizza.
Today, (Thursday) we had a little scare... our laptop would not boot up! This would mean Renee could not work, no DVD movies and we would have to use an internet cafe for email and posting. Our ability to do both would be limited as finding an open computer with decent processing speed is a challenge in the cafes. Anyway, our little friend is feeling better and seems to be working fine now.
Nataliya did some checking for us today and as of now, everything seems to be clear for getting our paperwork completed on Friday the 13th. If this holds true, we will fly to Kiev over the weekend. Yuri would be processed at the US Embassy on the 16th-17th and we hope to fly home on Wednesday, April 18th. In other news, Yuri will spend Easter weekend with his Babushka. At this moment, Yuri is patiently watching his Dad while he creates this post. Hoping Dad will be done very soon so he can play "Need for Speed2". OK, back to the catacombs.
The Catacombs of Odessa
Odessa is said to have two cites. One above ground and the other below the surface. Odessa is built on a thick bed of limestone. For well over a century, the builders of Odessa mined blocks of limestone from below the surface to construct the city above the surface. Over time, the mine shafts formed a labyrinth of tunnels, or catacombs, below the city. There are three layers of tunnels. The first, or top most layer consists of softer limestone mined for roads. The second and third layers were comprised of harder stone and used for construction of buildings.
There are over 2,500 kilometers of tunnels under the city. If laid end to end, there would be enough tunnel to stretch from Odessa to St. Petersberg. Catacombs run anywhere from 12 to 20 meters below the surface. The third, or bottom layer has been flooded by water. At one time, the catacombs were mapped but, during WWII, the maps were destroyed to prevent them from falling into the hands of the Nazi’s. Today, the catacombs are sealed to prevent curiosity seekers from becoming hopelessly lost and to curtail criminal use.
In 1941, the Nazi army laid siege to Odessa. For 109 days, citizens could not receive food and supplies by either land or sea. Odessa's waterworks were destroyed by bombardment. The regular Soviet Army and citizens of Odessa used what ever means possible to hold off the invaders, including, the catacombs. The vast, network of tunnels were perfect to launch attacks and move both fighters and supplies.
Eventually, the city fell to the Nazis and for the next 3 ½ years, the resistance or, partisans, used the catacombs to harass the occupying force. Many children, some as young seven years old, fought against the Nazi’s. Odessa was home to many Jews and the catacombs were used to shelter them from Nazi patrols.The Nazis used specially trained dogs to pick up on the scent of the catacombs. Anyone on the surface who was identified by these dogs was assumed to be part of the resistance and killed immediately.
Entrance to the catacombs.
Bedroom. It appears as if bedding consisted of mats made from dried reeds or straw. Living quarters were divided into three sections: men, women and families.
Kitchen. The occupants of the catacombs ground flour using a small, stone wheel and baked bread in a 55 gallon barrel that was converted into an oven. Smoke from the oven would give away their position so the oven was vented into the first level of tunnels, directly above the kitchen.
Water collection. Run off from rain water would fall through shafts and collect into basins (bottom) where it could be stored and used by the partisans. You could actually see daylight through the shaft (see hole at top).
Looking up the well shaft leading to the surface.
Looking down the well shaft to the pool of water below.
The well was also used to smuggle supplies to the partisans who were living in the catacombs. Partisans who remained on the surface, would go to the village well at the prearranged time to draw water. They would lower food and supplies in the empty bucket to partisans waiting below who would remove the supplies and fill the bucket with water for the return trip to the surface. (Reminds me of something you might see on an episode of "Hogan's Heroes".)
A crude memorial to those who died from either direct military action, starvation or disease. Limestone carved into the shape of two hands, cupped together. A lantern rests in the open palms of hands.
As part of the memorial, the face of a weeping woman was carved into the tunnel wall. When enough condensation forms in the hallow of her eyes, it trickles down her face to appear as if the woman is weeping in sorrow.
Laundry Room. I bet it took a while for clothes to dry in the cool, damp air of the catacombs.
Hospital area. (Good luck with your treatment.)
All partisans were required to take a pledge to fight to the death.
The tour concluded by climbing a winding, limestone staircase to the surface where you exited inside a museum.
Tour group back lit from light of stain glass window.
Period photo showing a member of the resistance being helped from an entrance to the catacombs.
Exterior of the museum is fairly modest.
Views of city surrounding the museum and entrance to the catacombs. It appears much as it did in the 1940's. Though it might appear like a rural village, this area is within the boundaries of Odessa.
Today, (Thursday) we had a little scare... our laptop would not boot up! This would mean Renee could not work, no DVD movies and we would have to use an internet cafe for email and posting. Our ability to do both would be limited as finding an open computer with decent processing speed is a challenge in the cafes. Anyway, our little friend is feeling better and seems to be working fine now.
Nataliya did some checking for us today and as of now, everything seems to be clear for getting our paperwork completed on Friday the 13th. If this holds true, we will fly to Kiev over the weekend. Yuri would be processed at the US Embassy on the 16th-17th and we hope to fly home on Wednesday, April 18th. In other news, Yuri will spend Easter weekend with his Babushka. At this moment, Yuri is patiently watching his Dad while he creates this post. Hoping Dad will be done very soon so he can play "Need for Speed2". OK, back to the catacombs.
The Catacombs of Odessa
Odessa is said to have two cites. One above ground and the other below the surface. Odessa is built on a thick bed of limestone. For well over a century, the builders of Odessa mined blocks of limestone from below the surface to construct the city above the surface. Over time, the mine shafts formed a labyrinth of tunnels, or catacombs, below the city. There are three layers of tunnels. The first, or top most layer consists of softer limestone mined for roads. The second and third layers were comprised of harder stone and used for construction of buildings.
There are over 2,500 kilometers of tunnels under the city. If laid end to end, there would be enough tunnel to stretch from Odessa to St. Petersberg. Catacombs run anywhere from 12 to 20 meters below the surface. The third, or bottom layer has been flooded by water. At one time, the catacombs were mapped but, during WWII, the maps were destroyed to prevent them from falling into the hands of the Nazi’s. Today, the catacombs are sealed to prevent curiosity seekers from becoming hopelessly lost and to curtail criminal use.
In 1941, the Nazi army laid siege to Odessa. For 109 days, citizens could not receive food and supplies by either land or sea. Odessa's waterworks were destroyed by bombardment. The regular Soviet Army and citizens of Odessa used what ever means possible to hold off the invaders, including, the catacombs. The vast, network of tunnels were perfect to launch attacks and move both fighters and supplies.
Eventually, the city fell to the Nazis and for the next 3 ½ years, the resistance or, partisans, used the catacombs to harass the occupying force. Many children, some as young seven years old, fought against the Nazi’s. Odessa was home to many Jews and the catacombs were used to shelter them from Nazi patrols.The Nazis used specially trained dogs to pick up on the scent of the catacombs. Anyone on the surface who was identified by these dogs was assumed to be part of the resistance and killed immediately.
Entrance to the catacombs.
Bedroom. It appears as if bedding consisted of mats made from dried reeds or straw. Living quarters were divided into three sections: men, women and families.
Kitchen. The occupants of the catacombs ground flour using a small, stone wheel and baked bread in a 55 gallon barrel that was converted into an oven. Smoke from the oven would give away their position so the oven was vented into the first level of tunnels, directly above the kitchen.
Water collection. Run off from rain water would fall through shafts and collect into basins (bottom) where it could be stored and used by the partisans. You could actually see daylight through the shaft (see hole at top).
Looking up the well shaft leading to the surface.
Looking down the well shaft to the pool of water below.
The well was also used to smuggle supplies to the partisans who were living in the catacombs. Partisans who remained on the surface, would go to the village well at the prearranged time to draw water. They would lower food and supplies in the empty bucket to partisans waiting below who would remove the supplies and fill the bucket with water for the return trip to the surface. (Reminds me of something you might see on an episode of "Hogan's Heroes".)
A crude memorial to those who died from either direct military action, starvation or disease. Limestone carved into the shape of two hands, cupped together. A lantern rests in the open palms of hands.
As part of the memorial, the face of a weeping woman was carved into the tunnel wall. When enough condensation forms in the hallow of her eyes, it trickles down her face to appear as if the woman is weeping in sorrow.
Laundry Room. I bet it took a while for clothes to dry in the cool, damp air of the catacombs.
Hospital area. (Good luck with your treatment.)
All partisans were required to take a pledge to fight to the death.
The tour concluded by climbing a winding, limestone staircase to the surface where you exited inside a museum.
Tour group back lit from light of stain glass window.
Period photo showing a member of the resistance being helped from an entrance to the catacombs.
Exterior of the museum is fairly modest.
Views of city surrounding the museum and entrance to the catacombs. It appears much as it did in the 1940's. Though it might appear like a rural village, this area is within the boundaries of Odessa.
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