Thursday, April 5, 2007

The Catacombs of Odessa

On Wednesday, we took an excursion bus to the Catacomb Museum located on the north edge of the city. More on that below. Wednesday evening, we went to services at the Vineyard church plant. After services, Michelle came to our apartment and we baked pizza.

Today, (Thursday) we had a little scare... our laptop would not boot up! This would mean Renee could not work, no DVD movies and we would have to use an internet cafe for email and posting. Our ability to do both would be limited as finding an open computer with decent processing speed is a challenge in the cafes. Anyway, our little friend is feeling better and seems to be working fine now.

Nataliya did some checking for us today and as of now, everything seems to be clear for getting our paperwork completed on Friday the 13th. If this holds true, we will fly to Kiev over the weekend. Yuri would be processed at the US Embassy on the 16th-17th and we hope to fly home on Wednesday, April 18th. In other news, Yuri will spend Easter weekend with his Babushka. At this moment, Yuri is patiently watching his Dad while he creates this post. Hoping Dad will be done very soon so he can play "Need for Speed2". OK, back to the catacombs.

The Catacombs of Odessa


Odessa is said to have two cites. One above ground and the other below the surface. Odessa is built on a thick bed of limestone. For well over a century, the builders of Odessa mined blocks of limestone from below the surface to construct the city above the surface. Over time, the mine shafts formed a labyrinth of tunnels, or catacombs, below the city. There are three layers of tunnels. The first, or top most layer consists of softer limestone mined for roads. The second and third layers were comprised of harder stone and used for construction of buildings.

There are over 2,500 kilometers of tunnels under the city. If laid end to end, there would be enough tunnel to stretch from Odessa to St. Petersberg. Catacombs run anywhere from 12 to 20 meters below the surface. The third, or bottom layer has been flooded by water. At one time, the catacombs were mapped but, during WWII, the maps were destroyed to prevent them from falling into the hands of the Nazi’s. Today, the catacombs are sealed to prevent curiosity seekers from becoming hopelessly lost and to curtail criminal use.

In 1941, the Nazi army laid siege to Odessa. For 109 days, citizens could not receive food and supplies by either land or sea. Odessa's waterworks were destroyed by bombardment. The regular Soviet Army and citizens of Odessa used what ever means possible to hold off the invaders, including, the catacombs. The vast, network of tunnels were perfect to launch attacks and move both fighters and supplies.

Eventually, the city fell to the Nazis and for the next 3 ½ years, the resistance or, partisans, used the catacombs to harass the occupying force. Many children, some as young seven years old, fought against the Nazi’s. Odessa was home to many Jews and the catacombs were used to shelter them from Nazi patrols.The Nazis used specially trained dogs to pick up on the scent of the catacombs. Anyone on the surface who was identified by these dogs was assumed to be part of the resistance and killed immediately.

Entrance to the catacombs.


Bedroom. It appears as if bedding consisted of mats made from dried reeds or straw. Living quarters were divided into three sections: men, women and families.


Kitchen. The occupants of the catacombs ground flour using a small, stone wheel and baked bread in a 55 gallon barrel that was converted into an oven. Smoke from the oven would give away their position so the oven was vented into the first level of tunnels, directly above the kitchen.


Water collection. Run off from rain water would fall through shafts and collect into basins (bottom) where it could be stored and used by the partisans. You could actually see daylight through the shaft (see hole at top).


Looking up the well shaft leading to the surface.


Looking down the well shaft to the pool of water below.

The well was also used to smuggle supplies to the partisans who were living in the catacombs. Partisans who remained on the surface, would go to the village well at the prearranged time to draw water. They would lower food and supplies in the empty bucket to partisans waiting below who would remove the supplies and fill the bucket with water for the return trip to the surface. (Reminds me of something you might see on an episode of "Hogan's Heroes".)


A crude memorial to those who died from either direct military action, starvation or disease. Limestone carved into the shape of two hands, cupped together. A lantern rests in the open palms of hands.


As part of the memorial, the face of a weeping woman was carved into the tunnel wall. When enough condensation forms in the hallow of her eyes, it trickles down her face to appear as if the woman is weeping in sorrow.


Laundry Room. I bet it took a while for clothes to dry in the cool, damp air of the catacombs.


Hospital area. (Good luck with your treatment.)


All partisans were required to take a pledge to fight to the death.


The tour concluded by climbing a winding, limestone staircase to the surface where you exited inside a museum.


Tour group back lit from light of stain glass window.


Period photo showing a member of the resistance being helped from an entrance to the catacombs.


Exterior of the museum is fairly modest.



Views of city surrounding the museum and entrance to the catacombs. It appears much as it did in the 1940's. Though it might appear like a rural village, this area is within the boundaries of Odessa.

1 comment:

Ted and Amy said...

Wow, what an interesting place. We hadn't heard of the catacombs when we were there. They would have been an interesting place to visit. Thanks for all the pictures and the story of them. We will be praying that all goes well with the paper work so you will be able to go next Friday.